Drive the truck up on the ramps, raising the front will lower the rear. One way to deal with that is to use ramps in the front, like you use when working under a vehicle. That is to give it more load carrying capacity. The only thing I ever rode into the back of a truck was a quad, and once while doing that I caught the plastic front fender of the quad on the back edge of the bed and tore a chunk out of it.Īnd yes, the back end of most trucks is noticeably higher than the front, usually 3"-4" higher. I left the engine off because even a tiny slip with your hand on the throttle could twist the throttle wide open. To load the dirt bikes, I used 2 ramps, like you have, put the bike on the right ramp, and walked it up from the left ramp, with the engine off. I was able to get 2 dirt bikes in it easily, but they did hit each other and the sides of the bed. I used to have a work truck with a utility (tool box) bed, which had a 4'x8' flat floor in the bed. And even if the bed is long enough, there may be a width problem with the fenders. The truck my father in law has has a really short bed, so it would have been impossible to have gotten 2 scooters in it. The only scooter I've ever had in the bed of a truck besides the Stella, was a Honda Metropolitan, and it did drag going over the top of the ramp. I'll take a pic of the current form when I remember. I also screwed in hex head screws to give traction because the board by it self is very slippery. I had to cut the side support down a little at the top because bikes would get hung up on it. Since then I have added side support with 1"x4" so now it looks like a channel with the bottom flush with the main board and the top sticking up acting as a guide to keep the tire on the board and not fall of the side. I got the aluminum part from Pepboys for about $20 years ago, they come in a pair. I have home made flat ramp, it has been improved since this picture:Īlso in this pic I had the tailgate on, this was back when I was still riding a 50cc scoot and it was so light that I could easily man handle it. Besides it will save your tailgate cable from eventually failing. I almost always take of my tailgate when I load big heavy things not just bikes. Also with the tailgate off the bumper is a good step so you don't have to step up as high, it is only a few inches but makes it that much easier to load. Get yourself a set of proper, high-quality loading ramps with added safety features like sidewalls. It doesn't seem like much of a difference but it is just enough to make a difference in clearance. Using a ramp is an easy and quick way to load and unload, but there are still safety precautions you must follow to ensure you and the vehicle are not injured. This causes the tailgate to be up higher then the end of the bed when it is down. Park on a level surface and you see that the rear of the bed is higher then the front. Please enable it in your browser setting to enjoy the full experience this website has to offer.Click to expand.Most all modern trucks have a slight angle to them, meaning that the rear kinda sticks up higher then the front. We detect that you don't have javascript enabled. The Heeler 87C Portable Corral, Chute and Alley.Q-Power 107 Series Portable Cattle Chute and Alley.Q-Power 107 Series Portable Hydraulic Chute, Alley and Tub.Q-Catch 74 Series Portable Squeeze Chute and Alley.Q-Catch 74 Series Portable Squeeze Chute, Alley and Tub.Q-Catch 87 Series Portable Cattle Chute and Alley.Q-Catch 87 Series Portable Cattle Chute, Alley and Tub.The Heeler 75C Portable Corral, Chute, and Alley.The Heeler 87C Portable Corral, Chute, and Alley.Q-Power 107 Series Portable Cattle Chute & Alley.Q-Power 107 Series Portable Hydraulic Chute, Alley & Tub.Q-Catch 74 Series Portable Squeeze Chute, Alley & Tub.Q-Catch 87 Series Portable Cattle Chute & Alley.Q-Catch 87 Series Portable Cattle Chute, Alley & Tub.Q-Power 104 Series Hydraulic Squeeze Chute.
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